Solo Scotland – Exploring Caithness with the Ulbster Arms Hotel
Solo travel is something I’m trying to embrace as my children get older. In my twenties the world really was my oyster as I spent years living overseas not thinking twice about hopping on a plane and saying goodbye to Blighty for months at a time. I find it much harder now, but I’m slowly starting to get the bug again. This was my most recent solo escapade. A long weekend in Caithness in Scotland; exploring the NC500 coastal roads whilst staying in a gorgeously cosy traditional hotel – The Ulbster Arms in Halkirk. It was incredible.
The Journey
I flew up to Inverness from Gatwick on a Thursday morning. By early afternoon I’d collected my hire car and was driving up the coast along the A9 taking in the increasingly stunning views. Any nerves I had about travelling on my own rapidly fading as I cranked up the stereo and warmed to the idea of life being just me and the open road for the next few days.
The Ulbster Arms Hotel
The Ulbster Arms Hotel is a 19th Century traditional retreat sitting right next to the River Thurso in the town of Halkirk. After a 2.5 hour drive I couldn’t have been happier to arrive. From the moment I walked in the front door I was greeted warmly and made to feel at home. Walking through the lounge areas the crackling fire and floor to ceiling library only adding to the homely feeling.
The Rooms
The hotel offers a selection of traditional rooms in the main hotel as well as a further 16 rooms across their private grounds offering a more contemporary stay. I was thrilled to be in one of their premium rooms located in the main hotel which included a fabulous roll top bath! Crisp white sheets, views over the river, cosy sofa area and tea and biscuits. Any busy mum knows this is what dreams are made of.
Dining
In terms of dining The Ulbster Arms has both an a la carte restaurant and a relaxed lounge bar area. The bar was buzzing every night with hotel guests, fishing tourists and locals. A really lovely atmosphere with a menu to match. I ate here every night during my stay and was treated to excellent service each and every time. The menu had daily specials including locally caught seafood as well as the staple offerings of beef burgers and fish n chips (also locally caught!).
Local Area
Halkirk lies inland, a short drive from the NC500 coastal route. I had two full days of road tripping during my stay. I loved exploring the coast, stopping when something took my interest. The scenery is absolutely stunning. Around every corner is something that just takes your breath away. Just a few (not all!) of my highlights are listed below:
John O Groats & Duncansby Stacks
Yes, it’s touristy but you have to visit…and John O Groats is far prettier than I expected. The famous sign post sits in front of a small working harbour with crystal clear waters and there’s a few quaint gift shops. A few miles from John O Groats, Duncansby Head is the actual most north-easterly point. A short walk south from the headland and you’ll find Duncansby Stacks, a series of incredible, jagged structures in the sea teeming with birdlife. These rocks are totally surreal, straight out of Mordor and definitely worth a visit.
Dunnet Head & Dunnet Beach
Dunnet Head lies as the most northerly point with views to the Orkney Islands and southward along the coast. The approaching road winds up to the view point which in itself is an experience, with endless blue skies against flashes of yellow gorse the views just get better and better. Beyond the headland lies Dunnet Beach, a fantastic sweeping arch of white sands set against a back drop of rolling sand dunes. I tried to brave a dip here, got up to my knees and chickened out! The North Sea is very cold!
The North Baths
The North Baths are located just outside Wick Harbour. Originally opened in 1904 the baths lay neglected for many years until their re-opening in 2004. The baths are now looked after by a team of volunteers and are an inviting location for a cold water dip. I managed to get all the way in this time!
Whaligoe Steps
Whaligoe Haven is an old, natural harbour surrounded on three sides by steep cliffs. In the 1800’s the haven was a hive of activity with up to 20 fishing boats moored at any time. Today it no longer serves that purpose but the 365 flagstone steps that allowed access back then remain, as does an old smokery and other historic pieces. It’s a quirky place with lots of character, not to mention a great spot for fishing or watching birdlife.
These highlights don’t even scratch the surface. There were so many places I stopped off at en route like the harbour where I came across a family of sunbathing seals, or the old working cottages turned into a café where I sat drinking tea in the sunshine. Caithness is an absolute gem. Wild, rugged and peaceful I was frequently reminded of travels to the South Island in New Zealand. I can’t recommend this trip enough – embracing the elements whilst exploring the Highlands and coast by day; followed by rejuvenation and relaxation at the Ulbster Arms by night. What a winning combination.
With thanks to the Ulbster Arms Hotel for hosting my stay.
